In our market a broom-finished slab runs about $9–$15 per square foot, a standard driveway $10–$17, and stamped or decorative work $17–$26. Demolition of the old concrete adds roughly $4–$8 per square foot. Full ranges for every line item are on our price list. Those are planning numbers — your actual price comes from a site visit and a written, itemized estimate, which is free.
You can walk on it after about 24 hours, drive a passenger car on it after 7 days, and put heavy trucks or an RV on it after 28 days. Concrete keeps gaining strength for months; those milestones are when it is strong enough for that specific load.
Almost certainly it will develop hairline shrinkage cracks — that is what concrete does as it loses water. The question is whether they show up as a straight line inside a control joint or as a random crack across the middle. Proper base prep, correct thickness, reinforcement and joints cut on time are how we control it. Any contractor who promises zero cracks is selling something.
Light drizzle before the finish stage is workable. Real rain on fresh concrete raises the water-to-cement ratio at the surface and gives you a weak, dusty finish that fails early. We watch the forecast and move dates when we need to.
Yes, with cold-weather practices: adjusted mix, no pouring onto frozen ground, insulating blankets and longer protection. Below about 25°F we usually wait. December through February we plan around dry, milder windows.
Four inches over compacted base for patios, walkways and standard car driveways. Five to six inches with heavier reinforcement for RVs, trailers, work trucks and shop floors. We size it to what will actually park on it and tell you when you do not need the upgrade.
Fiber controls surface shrinkage cracking but does nothing structurally. For driveways and anything carrying vehicles we use rebar on a grid, chaired up so the steel sits in the middle of the slab. Mesh is acceptable on light slabs when it is properly supported — not when it is left lying on the dirt.
Like-for-like replacement of a patio or driveway on private property usually does not require one. Work in the public right-of-way, new impervious surface over local thresholds, structural foundations and retaining walls generally do. We check with your jurisdiction and tell you before the job starts.
Plain broom-finished concrete does not require sealer, though it helps with stains. Colored, stamped or decorative work should be sealed and resealed every two to four years to keep the color from dulling. We use breathable sealers so moisture can escape rather than lifting a film off the surface.
We match finish, joint pattern and color as closely as new concrete allows, but a fresh pour always cures lighter and takes months to weather in. Where appearance really matters, replacing a full section usually looks better than a patch.
Yes. Demolition, loading and haul-off to a recycler are part of our estimates, listed as their own line item so you can see the cost.
One to three weeks is typical. Spring and late summer fill fastest, and winter schedules move with the weather. If you want work done before the holidays, call in early fall.
Marysville, Smokey Point, Tulalip, Arlington, Lake Stevens, Everett, Snohomish, Mukilteo, Mill Creek, Granite Falls, Stanwood, Monroe, Lynnwood, Bothell and Camano Island. Outside that, call and ask.
Yes — a written workmanship warranty covering our installation. It does not cover normal shrinkage cracking, damage from de-icing salts, or movement caused by something outside the slab such as a tree root or a failed drain line. All of that is spelled out plainly, not buried.
Still not sure?
Describe your project over the phone. Most questions take two minutes to answer and cost nothing.